Scotland for island
hoppers
by Louise Wardby
Bob Barton
In the space of a few invigorating
days of Scottish island hopping, I have walked into Fingal’s Cave; seen
Iona Abbey, cradle of Christianity in Scotland; gone pony-trekking and
cycling along a Hebridean coast; ridden the only steam train on a Scottish
island and sampled some lively Gaelic nightlife!
The frequent service of ferries plying to and from the patchwork of
islands off the west coast of Scotland make island hopping practical and
easy. They offer a variety of mountain and coastal landscapes, and are
rich in wildlife, from birds of prey to deer and dolphins.
Arran, one of the bigger islands, is just two hours from Glasgow, the
commercial heart of Scotland. Outside the summer season, in the fresh
spring days and the russet-tinted autumn months, it seems that just a few
visitors have the isles to themselves.
My island adventure started at Oban, 93 miles north-west of Glasgow, a
compact port from which ubiquitous Caledonian MacBrayne ferries sail off
in different directions. It was just 40 minutes on the car ferry to Mull,
the second largest of the Hebridean islands after Skye. Its 352 square
miles contain a population of just 3,000 (Greater London, just under twice
the size, packs in seven million!).
Craignure, one of Mull's ferry ports, becomes a hive of activity whenever
a boat arrives. After a hearty lunch in the stone-built Craignure Inn,
David Moseley welcomed me aboard his pride and joy, a gleaming steam train
of the Mull Railway that took us the mile or so to Torosay Castle.
This baronial style house is surrounded by acres of gardens – formal
terraces, a statue walk, clipped yew hedges, a eucalyptus grove – all set
beneath a stunning backdrop of mountains. In typical island fashion,
visitors are welcomed as guests, encouraged to sit on the armchairs and
leaf through the family scrap albums.
Mull is one of the best islands from which to see wildlife including sea
eagles and otters, whose populations are growing steadily. There are
seals, too – and more deer than people: 7,000 at the last count -- and 215
species of birds spotted in recent years.
In Scotland, one island often leads to another. At the western extremity
of Mull you can see the Isle of Iona, with its abbey an unmistakable
landmark across the sound. As well as the regular crossings to Iona, two
ferry companies make the longer journey to Staffa, and for £12.50 you can
reach both islands on the same trip.
Staffa's famous sea-cave inspired the German composer Mendelssohn in his
“Hebrides” Overture. In fact, it is not so much an island, more a huge
lump of volcanic rock rising out of the Atlantic (its name is Norse for
Pillar Island). In summer it is home to thousands of puffins. I edged my
way along the basaltic pillars (thankfully there is a rope to hold on to)
into the mouth of the cave. The weird rock shapes are all around – even on
the ceiling. It was the eerie sound of a rough sea booming and crashing
inside the cavern that inspired the composer, though this day was very
different. A calm sea and glorious sunshine brought sightings of puffins,
shags and a shy sea-otter.
Returning to Iona, passengers are invited to explore this island on foot
(cars are not encouraged) or in style by pony-and-trap, visiting the abbey
and ancient chapel where 48 Scottish kings are reputedly buried. It was
here that St. Columba and his followers came from Ireland in the 6th
century and spread their teachings throughout Scotland and much of Europe.
Back on Mull, Tobermory is the main town, its focal point being colour-washed
houses strung around a crescent-shaped harbour. The Tobermory Hotel had a
room – like so many on the islands – with a perfect view. Sunrise over
Tobermory harbour was bettered only by… a night-time full moon over the
same harbour, glinting on the bay at the bottom of which a sunken Spanish
sailing ship lies.
Evening was spent in the Mishnish Inn, a waterside pub where the whole
community seemed to have gathered. I chose the Gaelic music and convivial
company in one bar, while others next-door enjoyed a disco with the latest
techno beat and fog effects: two cultures happily co-existing in this
remote Hebridean outpost.
The following day was an active one, renting ponies and trekking along a
deserted coastline before renting mountain bikes in Craignure. After
pedalling down to Torosay Castle and its neighbour, Duart Castle -- 13th
century home of the Chief of Clan Maclean -- in a burst of enthusiasm I,
and my fellow pedal-pushers, decided to cycle the 21 miles back to
Tobermory. There was hardly any traffic on the mainly single track road,
which provided endless vistas of sea and mountains and only one (rather
long) upward climb. The few cars coming the other way stopped politely to
let us pass.
Tobermory is the departure point for trips to see dolphins, basking shark
and even whales, which come in close to the islands. Only a few days
before, four bottlenose dolphins had been spotted outside the town, and
the previous week a humpback whale was observed basking off the Isle of
Skye.
These are not the only delights of the Hebrides; I also noticed:
The air is so pure that lichen grows on the trunks and branches of trees;
and the light is so clear it gives a sharpness much sought after by
photographers and artists. Many beaches are of soft, white sand and lapped
by clear water.
Among the other islands to visit are Islay, renowned for its peaty malt
whisky; Skye with its links with 'Bonnie Prince Charlie'; and Jura, where
George Orwell came to write "1984".
The British Tourist Authority has a free map-folder, "Green Britain for
the New Millennium" which is packed with ideas and advice for adventures
in Scotland's great outdoors, and further afield.
